alfeed cluett



(No ModeL J. W. A. CLUETT.

Collar. No. 230,109. Patented July 20,1880.

Zhl-

UNITED STATES PATENT J. W. ALFRED OLUETT, OF rlROY, NEW YORK.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 230,109, dated July 20, 1880,

Application filed March 1E, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J. W. ALFRED OLUE'rT, of the city of Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to collars for ladies7 and gentlemens wear, and is more particularly applicable to collars known as garrote; collars,77 which are collars without bands, although applicable to collars with bands; and it consists, chiefly, in cutting the body of the collar in three principal longitudinal partsin such manner that the said parts, together with the parts forming the interlinin gs, can be run or stitched, wrong side out, entirely around the body of the collar and stitched down at the edges in a uniform and even manner, and the closing-seam stitched down so as to form a strengthening and an ornamental rib between the end button- U holes and the top of the collar-body.

My drawings show a garrote collar; but as it is obvious that this may have the ordinary band attached and the end button-holes put in the band instead of in the body of the collar, I do not show any band, as I make no claim to any part of the band of a collar, in combination or otherwise.

G arrote collars and the bodies of collars having bands are and have heretofore been made by stitching or running together, wrong side out, the ends and one side of the parts forming the body, and then turning the parts right side out and stitching the closing-seam into the band of the collar, or turning in the unstitched edges of the body of the collar and stitching the same down as the closingseam. In so making the body of the collar there is always one or more raw or nnstitched edges to be disposed of by concealing them in a band, or by finally turning in such edges and seaming the same down in the body of the collar, which is liable to occasion unsightly wrinkles, and requires skilled labor to pro duce a reasonably well formed and finished collar-body.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents sepa- Iately the three principal longitudinal parts of the collar-body, A being one part, of single ply, preferably of linen, to form the outer face of the collar; B being the inner side or face, and of the number of plies desired, and cut so that when folded once it will be narrower from about the center thereof to the ends than the piece A; and O being the narrow folded piece, which is seamed in at the edge with the piece A, and, with the piece B, forming the closingseam of the three parts at any desired point between the outer edges of the collar-body.

Fig. 2is a plan view ofthe collar-body, wherein a portion of the three principal parts is turned away from a finished part of the collar to eX- hibit the location of the three parts.

Fig. 3 is a view of the inner face of the finished coller, showing the closing-seam.

Like letters in all the figures refer to corresponding parts.

These three principal parts are unlike each other in width and shape. The upper edges of the inner face, B, and of the outer face, A, are cut on the same line; but the inner face, B, is a folded piece, preferably with the folded edge at the closing-seam, and is so cut and folded that it will be wider at the center, gradually narrowing slightly from at or near the center toward the ends, while the outer face, A, is cut about the same width at its center as face B, and continuing the same width to the ends, or slightly increasing in width toward the ends, according to the taste of the manufacturer. The narrower piece G has its lower edge cut in the same line as the lower edge of the face A, and is cut wide enough to overlap or underlap (preferably underlap) the lower edge of the piece B far enough to make a closing-seam. The upper edges and ends of the two pieces A and B and the interlinings, if any, are then run or stitched together, and the lower edge of the piece A run or stitched to the lower cut edges of the folded piece U, all wrong side out. The pieces are then turned right side out between the folded edges of B and C, and then stitched down, and the entire body of the collar stitched around, as may be required by the taste of the manufacturer or dealer.

lt will be observed that by cutting these three pieces as described the closing seam will gradually approach the upper edge of the IOO collar-body, and will pass above the end button-holes, leaving a thinner and more pliable part about such button-holes, and the buttonholes still be protected and stayed by the end seams and stitching; also, that the closing seam Will add strength and rigidity to lthe upper part of the collar-front.

By the mode of cutting and making above described a very attractive, tinished, and d urable garrote collar and a collar-body having a band are produced.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A collar-body having its inner and outer faces cut so that the lower edges will, from at or near the center, diverge toward the ends, in combination with a narrow piece to lill the space between sucll diverging lines, and to J. W. ALFRED OLUETT.

Witnesses:

ALONZO ALBEN, N. DAVENPORT. 

